Since several Raw developer programs now include the ability to do local edits, there’s no reason not to go the extra step and make your out-of-focus areas look a little better. In fact, I apply a denoising strategy unique to each high ISO image to make sure that the nice bokeh from the lens is not hindered by unwanted roughness from noise. And second, I truly feel that the minor details, even if they aren’t immediately noticeable to everyone, add up and contribute to a subconscious enjoyment of an image. First, the result is very noticeable to me on a 4k monitor or in a print, even as small as 8×10. The final effect may be a bit more subtle, but I did it for two reasons. Therefore, I selectively applied a bit of smoothing to the green part of the image, which results in the final square. As improved as it is, there is still a little bit of splotchy roughness that would keep me awake at night if I couldn’t get rid of it. The second is the result after applying regular denoising. The first square is from the image before denoising. Smoothing the remaining roughness after noise reduction will make good bokeh stand out For example, consider the following image of a Song Sparrow: ![]() ![]() Typical one-click noise reduction doesn’t always yield ideal results. However, there is noise reduction and then there is noise reduction. Naturally, noise reduction is the answer. But although noise doesn’t arise from an optical property of the lens like chromatic aberration does, it still interferes with the enjoyment of good bokeh. Get Rid of NoiseĬan anything ruin good bokeh faster than noise? Well, maybe a broken aperture blade could. Of course, dust and dirt on the sensor itself is the worst, and will appear even in areas that are in focus! 6. Five minutes of maintenance on your lenses and sensor will prevent many nightmares in the wee small hours of the morning.Īlthough you should keep all your gear clean from top to bottom, as a rule, the closer the dust or dirt is to your sensor, the more it will show up in unwanted spots. If the bokeh circles are large and the dust plentiful, then this will easily be visible under ordinary circumstances. (Don’t worry, it’s not a lens I use, but a broken lens I use for demos like this.) These dust particles showed themselves in the bokeh circles making them look rough. Generally, good modern portrait lenses have many rounded aperture blades, such as the Sony FE 85mm f/1.4, which has 11!īefore and after cleaning the lens’s rear element ![]() ![]() While distinct hexagons may be chic in some circles, if you want rounder bokeh balls, aim for rounded aperture blades. The difference is that they are rounded in the Nikon. In fact, the Nikon still has seven blades like the Laowa. Is that because of many more aperture blades? No. Unlike the other two lenses, the bokeh balls remain fairly circular even when the lens is stopped down to f/2.8. This lens has seven blades rather than six, producing heptagons that are a bit closer to circles.įinally, we come to the bottom row produced by the Nikon 50mm f/1.8G lens. This is important to keep in mind because these lenses have made a bit of a comeback since the rise of lens adapters and mirrorless cameras.Īnyway, moving down to the middle row taken by the more modern Laowa 50mm f/2.8 2X macro, you can see that the aperture blades are better behaved here and never produce the shuriken bokeh of the Pentax. Such designs are prevalent on older, manual focus lenses.
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